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Topic: 2012 FJR1300A is running rich  (Read 11925 times)

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« Reply #20 on: August 30, 2019, 09:29:58 pm »


The more I think about your issue, I would think C02 sensor.

I cant believe a stock FJR can run rich! (Hence why I bought the PC III)

It's a little confusing to me. If you read from the beginning of this post you will see that I really don't think it is the O2 sensor. After the bike is on the road it does change AFR at different elevations and gets really good mileage at these different elevastions so the O2 senser is doing its job.

I believe it is something that is effecting low rpm range fueling. A bad coolant sensor that sends a signal to the ecu that the bike is cold which would make the ecu richen things up. Something to that effect anyway. I really need to take all the plastic off and find the sensors for a check on wiring/connections and so forth.  There are no codes in the dash.
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« Reply #21 on: August 31, 2019, 01:55:58 pm »

My apologies, I did not review your prior comments.

I believe you are on the right path.
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« Reply #22 on: September 06, 2019, 10:56:23 pm »


Have you tried FJRForum.com?


I've been trying to sign up but I chalk my unsuccessfulness to this new technology.               Shrug
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« Reply #23 on: September 07, 2019, 10:26:28 am »


I've been trying to sign up but I chalk my unsuccessfulness to this new technology.               Shrug


New (cloud-based) forum just went on line this week. Go to httpS :// fjrforum. com (without the S it goes to the old, dead location).
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« Reply #24 on: September 07, 2019, 06:32:36 pm »




New (cloud-based) forum just went on line this week. Go to httpS :// fjrforum. com (without the S it goes to the old, dead location).


Thanks. In the next day or so I will try. Maybe one of the wizards can help me on the FJR!
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« Reply #25 on: September 29, 2019, 09:23:52 am »

Put a low mileage 2015 exhaust O2 sensor on my bike yesterday. The change did very little. The bike runs slightly better which can be attributed to the wear difference. Still scotching head on current problem.
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« Reply #26 on: September 29, 2019, 10:18:54 am »


Put a low mileage 2015 exhaust O2 sensor on my bike yesterday. The change did very little. The bike runs slightly better which can be attributed to the wear difference. Still scotching head on current problem.


Although I fully appreciate the benefits, “scotching” may not be the best approach.  
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« Reply #27 on: September 29, 2019, 02:56:24 pm »




Although I fully appreciate the benefits, “scotching” may not be the best approach.  


Good catch!!!! I "usually" double check my work. Should have been scratching.  I'm a bad enough shade tree mechanic if I chose the other way I'd be in real trouble.
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« Reply #28 on: November 25, 2019, 09:21:02 pm »

Honda Blackbirds run rich and have fuel mileage problems when their Fuel Pressure Regulator shits the bed.
No knowledge of FJR's but its a thought.
My VFR had this same issue when bought it, and replacing the fuel pressure regulator did the trick.  The diagphragm in the old regulator tore, dumping fuel into non-firing cylinders.  Still Honda, but the issue sounds very similar.

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« Reply #29 on: November 26, 2019, 09:08:42 am »

The only time I've heard of any fueling issues has been either a plugged line or a blocked air filter. I got it once by over-oiling my Uni-filter.
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« Reply #30 on: December 18, 2019, 05:35:53 pm »

I haven't ridden either bike in two months. I think that is the longest non riding stretch for me in more than twenty years.      


Which side is the clutch on? Left I think.
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« Reply #31 on: December 21, 2019, 11:33:47 am »

Did you ever get to pull the plastics and inspect the various sensors? It sounds like a coolant or air temp sensor may be the culprit. Especially if it was a sudden change. A service manual should give you the correct resistance of the sensor when cold and hot.  If you cannot find a SM, I may be able to get the temp / resistance values for you.
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« Reply #32 on: December 22, 2019, 09:04:22 am »


Did you ever get to pull the plastics and inspect the various sensors? It sounds like a coolant or air temp sensor may be the culprit. Especially if it was a sudden change. A service manual should give you the correct resistance of the sensor when cold and hot.  If you cannot find a SM, I may be able to get the temp / resistance values for you.



To be honest there is a reason I haven't ridden in two months, I been busy!  

I have:

 - Checked plugs. They look good.      EEK!              
 - Changed O2 sensor. No real change.
 - Checked for vacuum leaks(which really should make bike run lean) OK, no leaks.
 - Checked for any codes on instrument panel. Only two were from years ago. Crankshaft position sensor which I believe was from when I adjusted valves. Removed side cover and looked and  
    everything was fine. Then, one code from when I put my foot down with no ground there. Tipover code. I removed all codes and took it for a 50 mile spin. Came back and no more codes.
 - Cleaned air filter.
 - Checked a couple of sensors. Look good. Clean connections. Have not checked actual ohm readings and such.
 - Looked over everything seeable and all looks good.
 - I am going to pull gas tank and remove fuel pump and check that.


Years ago I filled up my gas tank, when I was on the road, with about five gallons of E85. Which means anywhere from 50% to 80% ethanol. I realized immediately that I goofed big time. I babied the bike for 100 miles and refilled with good stuff. I babied it another 100 miles and repeat until the bike was OK. I am not at all worried about mechanical damage but I wonder if the ethanol swelled some seals in the FI, or other, that is allowing excess gas to squeak by which would account for my richness now.
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« Reply #33 on: December 22, 2019, 10:41:11 am »


I haven't ridden either bike in two months. I think that is the longest non riding stretch for me in more than twenty years.      



You just dropped a notch in my book.  Embarassment
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« Reply #34 on: December 22, 2019, 04:37:49 pm »

 



You just dropped a notch in my book.  Embarassment


 
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« Reply #35 on: March 21, 2020, 07:24:34 am »

My Bandit 1250 runs great and I set it up for my upcoming vacation.

So, I finally got off my can and started work on my beloved FJR! Checked the water lines thinking that the small 1/4"(?) coolant lines running under the FI may have something to with cold start-up and being clogged, or other, causing the rich condition after warm-up. Not that, everything is clean as a whistle and clear as a bell. Checked spark plugs and they look great. Everything seeable looks good. The work done yesterday along with the other checking I've done really has me scratching my head.

I ordered a new carb synchronizer and will check that next week. I don't think that is the problem but it is time for that service anyway.  I will probably check the valves. It is time but I don't think that is the problem either but it is time for that anyway.

When I put everything back together and it if it still runs rich it will be time for Mr. Yamaha to have a look. I sure hope they have a diagnostic tool that can access the electronic gadgets that I can't. The problem has to be some little electronic diode somewhere that has gone on the fritz.
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« Reply #36 on: April 20, 2020, 02:08:37 pm »

Well...……….got off my can again.                            You won't believe what I found! Remember the old days when we tuned up our cars? Without fuel injection? If the choke hung up when warm the motor would blubber. Then we would rev it a bit and maybe the choke arm would come unstuck or other. That is what the FJR has acted like. At freeway cruising speed the response has been down a bit but MPG has been near what it should be. Then at idle the bike would not idle real smooth but upon a little rev the bike would seem to run like it should. Headscratch  I really thought the bike was rich and have focused my efforts on that. Nothing.

I wrote that the plugs looked good. Actually they look real good.  Headscratch   I also wrote that the problem has to be something simple. So I went to put them back in and BINGO!!!!!!! The number four plug cap was jacked up! The spark plug wire from the coil "screws" into the long spark plug cap that goes down into the head to the plug. The plug wire was "warbled out" and was very loose on the spark plug. I cut off 3/8" of the spark plug wire reinserted it into the plug cap and screwed it tight. The loose connection was causing the #4 cylinder to have a slight miss at idle which made the bike run like it was a 3 1/2 cylinder bike. When revving the engine the increase in electrical output would cause a better connect at the plug and mask what was happening.


                                Bigok


I checked the FI synchronization it is within spec. Not prefect but darn close!!!!!!!!!!
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« Reply #37 on: April 20, 2020, 05:03:13 pm »

Glad you got it sorted.
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« Reply #38 on: April 20, 2020, 11:39:42 pm »


Glad you got it sorted.



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