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Topic: 07 Ninja 650 stator issues  (Read 443 times)

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howardrichman
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« on: November 08, 2021, 01:15:01 pm »

I've never really had problems with this bike , except @60,000+  miles original stator burned out(cooked). I do run w/ heated grips and CB radio. I dout that had any effect on the stator, but not sure if it was able to handle it. just under10K miles later after i installed a dash mount digital voltmeter, I noticed while riding at various rpm's, the charging volts were dropped below 11.5 VDC, and varying, but started out @14.4VDC. I put voltage and load test on battery, and was good. A/C volts out of stator @ 4k RPM's read 37.5-38V, and speced in manual for 42+Volts. Not sure if that's significant enough of a drop. Resistance was to spec and consistance and no short to GND across all 3 phases. Manual states it could be rotor magnetism !    Any suggestions ?

     Thanks;

                    Howie
« Last Edit: November 08, 2021, 01:22:25 pm by howardrichman » Logged
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kver
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« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2021, 08:23:28 pm »


I've never really had problems with this bike , except @60,000+  miles original stator burned out(cooked). I do run w/ heated grips and CB radio. I dout that had any effect on the stator, but not sure if it was able to handle it. just under10K miles later after i installed a dash mount digital voltmeter, I noticed while riding at various rpm's, the charging volts were dropped below 11.5 VDC, and varying, but started out @14.4VDC. I put voltage and load test on battery, and was good. A/C volts out of stator @ 4k RPM's read 37.5-38V, and speced in manual for 42+Volts. Not sure if that's significant enough of a drop. Resistance was to spec and consistance and no short to GND across all 3 phases. Manual states it could be rotor magnetism !    Any suggestions ?

     Thanks;

                    Howie


Sorry didn't see this sooner -- that's almost certainly a bad regulator/rectifier -- good thing is they're cheap and easy to replace  --  do it before it kills your battery or some other electronics...
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« Reply #2 on: November 14, 2021, 06:58:15 am »

I ain't no stinkin good at electronics!
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kver
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« Reply #3 on: November 14, 2021, 01:36:00 pm »


I ain't no stinkin good at electronics!


yeah -- but this is a plug and play module ... you unscrew the bracket holding it to the heatsink, unplug it, plug a new one in and screw it back to the heatsink.  Usually it's under your seat or near the radiator.  

I should point out that there are upgraded ones (MOSFET) - that work MUCH better than the OEM ones (SCRs) --- with 1 caveat -- if your stator is already damaged the MOSFET could cause it to fail quicker.  

If you run extra lights or heated gear or anything or more importantly get an uprated stator - switch to a MOSFET...
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howardrichman
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« Reply #4 on: November 15, 2021, 01:44:05 pm »




yeah -- but this is a plug and play module ... you unscrew the bracket holding it to the heatsink, unplug it, plug a new one in and screw it back to the heatsink.  Usually it's under your seat or near the radiator.  

I should point out that there are upgraded ones (MOSFET) - that work MUCH better than the OEM ones (SCRs) --- with 1 caveat -- if your stator is already damaged the MOSFET could cause it to fail quicker.  

If you run extra lights or heated gear or anything or more importantly get an uprated stator - switch to a MOSFET...


Allready ordered a OEM regulator from Partzilla. I dont trust aftermarket charger parts since the Rick's regulator and/or stator I used could be faulty. There are stator/regulator kits on Amazon that too cheap to be any good. The D/C loads aside from the bike are: Heated grips,CB radio, GPS, and a chain oiler. I dont know if I can purchase an upgraded stator for the Ninja 650.

   TNX for reply.
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kver
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« Reply #5 on: November 15, 2021, 02:09:54 pm »


Allready ordered a OEM regulator from Partzilla. I dont trust aftermarket charger parts since the Rick's regulator and/or stator I used could be faulty. There are stator/regulator kits on Amazon that too cheap to be any good. The D/C loads aside from the bike are: Heated grips,CB radio, GPS, and a chain oiler. I dont know if I can purchase an upgraded stator for the Ninja 650.

   TNX for reply.


Good luck!!

FWIW the "aftermarket" R/Rs I refer to aren't really "aftermarket" as much as they are much much better upgrades -- the electronics / way they work are completely different...  I actually don't know if your year 650 has an SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) or MOSFET ...    Either way - Go with what you got -- it'll fixya...  
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howardrichman
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« Reply #6 on: November 16, 2021, 08:59:34 am »




Good luck!!

FWIW the "aftermarket" R/Rs I refer to aren't really "aftermarket" as much as they are much much better upgrades -- the electronics / way they work are completely different...  I actually don't know if your year 650 has an SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) or MOSFET ...    Either way - Go with what you got -- it'll fixya...  



The only place to get a MOSFET R/R that I know is Ricks Stators. The last Stator/ Rgulator from them lasted 10-15K miles.
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howardrichman
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« Reply #7 on: November 16, 2021, 09:02:57 am »


I ain't no stinkin good at electronics!


OEM R/R ain't cheap ! $144.
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HanksXXX
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« Reply #8 on: November 16, 2021, 09:17:10 am »

https://roadstercycle.com/

I've been using Jack's kits for years.
He is great to work with and always accessable by phone for questions/advice.
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tbzep
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« Reply #9 on: November 16, 2021, 10:03:52 am »

Sometimes you can use a modern mosfet that goes on a different bike.  Check out the Kawi forums and see if anyone has made the switch.  The VFR is notorious for eating RR's.  A lot of VFR people went to a Suzuki mosfet RR and had great success.
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HanksXXX
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« Reply #10 on: November 16, 2021, 01:49:11 pm »


Sometimes you can use a modern mosfet that goes on a different bike.  Check out the Kawi forums and see if anyone has made the switch.  The VFR is notorious for eating RR's.  A lot of VFR people went to a Suzuki mosfet RR and had great success.


Exactly what Roadstercycle does... Wink
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howardrichman
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« Reply #11 on: November 17, 2021, 04:44:10 pm »

i just replaced the R/R w/ an OEM unit. 13.7VDC @ idle, and 14.5VDC @ 4k rpm's. I think that's correct. The stator is still only putting out 38VAC. the Stator and R/R was purchased from Ricks stators, and the new R/R is OEM from factory. i think if i do need a stator, i'll have to buy OEM.

  TNX...
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kver
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« Reply #12 on: November 17, 2021, 06:59:13 pm »


i just replaced the R/R w/ an OEM unit. 13.7VDC @ idle, and 14.5VDC @ 4k rpm's. I think that's correct. The stator is still only putting out 38VAC. the Stator and R/R was purchased from Ricks stators, and the new R/R is OEM from factory. i think if i do need a stator, i'll have to buy OEM.

  TNX...


Looks like you're good to go for probably 60K miles ....   I really doubt you'll need a new stator since
A) the voltage at the R/R seems good
B) you said all three phases had the same voltage
C) 38VAC isn't that far off -- I originally thought that was indicative of a leak to ground in the R/R -- the shunt diode -- which is why I brought up the hole SCR / MOSFET thing -- but I guess you really are a few volts short...  

But I've been wrong before Smile
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howardrichman
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« Reply #13 on: November 17, 2021, 09:39:44 pm »




Looks like you're good to go for probably 60K miles ....   I really doubt you'll need a new stator since
A) the voltage at the R/R seems good
B) you said all three phases had the same voltage
C) 38VAC isn't that far off -- I originally thought that was indicative of a leak to ground in the R/R -- the shunt diode -- which is why I brought up the hole SCR / MOSFET thing -- but I guess you really are a few volts short...  

But I've been wrong before Smile


tnx for reply. Yes, i did test the stator leads separate from the R/R, read 38 vac, and max resistance to gnd on all 3 phases. I read on a 650 Verses site where another aftermarket stator tested @ 35vac; swaped out w/ an OEM unit and got 50vac.  
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kver
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« Reply #14 on: November 18, 2021, 01:49:12 am »


tnx for reply. Yes, i did test the stator leads separate from the R/R, read 38 vac, and max resistance to gnd on all 3 phases. I read on a 650 Verses site where another aftermarket stator tested @ 35vac; swaped out w/ an OEM unit and got 50vac.  


Well in the end it really doesn't matter what AC voltage you get as long as the R/R is providing enough power (voltage and amperage) to run your accessories. -- and that the voltage is the same across a 3 phases -- so you don't have a short somewhere...  Lower voltage just means you have fewer wraps --and hopefully a larger / lower guage wire that can handle more current and produce less heat???
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